Derry Bakeries
Do you know what a gravy ring is? Or a ‘wee German’? Did you know the arguments that have occurred over whether or not you butter a turnover? Or perhaps you are familiar with the hit TV series ‘Derry Girls’ and know that we all love a Cream Horn, preferably in Pump Street.
The tradition of the small local bakery, and the morning ‘bun run’ is still very much embedded into the culture of the City of Derry. Homes and workplaces despatch willing volunteers to pick up a selection of baked goods for breakfast or mid-morning break. In the newspaper office I worked in for 17 years, woe betide the junior reporter who would forget that the editor was fond of a scone, or that jam and icing turnovers were tasted best when slightly burned.
Bakeries are more than just shops in this city however, they serve almost as community hubs. The staff know the regular orders that come in each day. They know the lives of their customers – and often generations of families.
And forget fancy bespoke decorated birthday cakes, the greatest joy a Derry person can experience is a personalised sponge cake from Doherty’s Bakery. (Trust me, you haven’t lived until you’ve mainlined this cake after your child’s birthday party when you’re exhausted from the clean-up and need sustenance!).
But why are bakeries such a strong part of Derry culture? And why was I inspired to write about Flora and her bakery ‘Wee Buns’ in Don’t Stop Believing?
As those who know anything about the history of Derry – Londonderry, this city has had a troubled past. Not only in terms of political instability and conflict, but the knock on effect those years have had on generations of local families. We have traditionally been a low income, high unemployment region. When business boomed here, it was at one time in the former of shirt factories, which employed hundreds if not thousands of local women. Songs and stories have been written about factory girls – and no doubt many of them mention the morning bun runs and the camaraderie over a cup of tea and a cream finger.
In lean times, there were bakeries who made sure families had at least some food on the table. As a reporter I covered the story of a small home bakery on Abercorn Road where the matriarch of the house was known to gift loaves of bread to those in need, or where ‘tick’ was never fully paid off.
Just like Flora in Don’t Stop Believing, these small bakeries may have been a part of a family’s life through their best and worst times, and every time in between. From celebratory wedding cakes, donations of scones and pastries for the traditional Irish wake.
I opened up the discussion on bakeries on my Facebook author page – and there is little that gets Derry people fired up more than recommending their own favourite purveyor of baked goods. These are matters we take very seriously. So if you ever find yourself in Derry, the people of this city recommend you check out Doherty’s Bakery, McDaid’s Bakery, Sackville Street Bakery, Bond Street Bakery, Longs Supermarkets, Ebrington Bakery & Eleanor’s Bakery.
And our personal recommendations? Well a gravy ring is really just our name for a ring doughnut – but I swear I’ve never tasted better outside of this city. A turnover should not, in my opinion, require butter. A sausage-roll bap is as carb loaded as it sounds but if you have over-indulged the night before you will want this on your side. A ‘Wee German’ can also be known as a ‘Paris’ bun – there is rumour the name was changed during WW2, but in Derry you never quite know what’s a fact and what’s a magical story. And you simply must try a muffin, burnt to a crisp and spread thick with real butter.
Buns don’t make your problems go away, but they definitely help make your day a lot nicer. And in case you didn’t know, when we want to encourage people, or tell them something is well within their capabilities here in Derry, we say ‘It’ll be wee buns!’
Make sure to pick up your copy of Don’t Stop Believing by Freya Kennedy today: https://mybook.to/believingsocial